27 Ağustos 2012 Pazartesi

Backup regulator


Why a backup reg?
Normally we breath from our primary regulator, our longhose. During decompression we use one of our deco bottles and when diving stage bottles we breath from them. When the longhose is not used it is always clipped of with an attached boltsnap to our right chest D-ring.
If we have a problem we donate the only regulator we KNOW is working - the one we are breathing. That way we also know that we give away something that is safe to breath at that depth - important when you use multiple gases.
After donating our regulator we need something else to breath - our backup regulator. Since our backup is what we are going to use in an emergency we need to find it fast and we need to be sure that it is going to be there. Let's see how we can do that.
Rigging

The backup second stage hangs around our neck like a necklace. The necklace is made of elastic bungee, aka shock cord or surgical tubing. Surgical tubing is smoother but will deteriorate and dry rot after a couple of years. Bungee however will hold for many years and can be found in most hardware stores or marine stores. If you want it in black you may have to lock around though.
Make the loop the length that you can just reach the regulator with your mouth while wearing it. That way it's going hang quite close to you but not so close that you can't look down while diving.

The cord or surgical tubing is put under the same tie wrap as the mouthpiece on the second stage. If you use bungee then make a knot when you have adjusted it so it can't be pulled through. With surgical tubing that is not necessary.
Getting caught
Let's say you get something wrapped around your backup regulator and you keep swimming without noticing. If your backup reg was not securly attached it would be pulled out and if you needed it it would not hang around your neck anymore.
Some people use a loop that is put around the mouthpiece. As you can understand from above that is not a good idea. I actually used to have it rigged like that when I started tech diving because that was how I was taught. After having had the backup coming undone twice so that I could not find it when I needed it I stopped using the loop.

With the bungee secured under the tie wrap the bungee will stretch it is impossible to swim hard enough to pull it off. If you have any doubt I suggest you try and pull it off on land so you realize how much force is needed.
Picking a suitable second stage
Since the backup will hang upside down it will be prone to freeflow. Actually most second stages are suppose to be adjusted when serviced so that they freeflow in this position. To solve that problem you have three options:
  • Have your second stage detuned when you service it
  • Use an unbalanced "low performance" second stage like Scubapro R190.
  • Use an high performance second stage with cracking pressure adjustment
Option number three is what I prefer. Now I can detune the second stage underwater and if I need to breath it for an extended amount of time I can tune it up again.
In the pictures above the cracking pressure adjustment is the metal knob to the left (Apeks TX50). The following second stages currently in production (2006) have this adjustment; Apeks TX50/100/200, Apeks ATX50/100/200, Apeks XTX50/100/200, Scubapro G250, Scubapro S600.
Finer points
Look here for details about proper hose length and how to route the hose. Apeks and some other manufacturers put hose protectors near the second stage. Cut them off as they will only stop the hose from doing a nice soft bend.
When you decide on the proper length for the bungee don't forget that wearing a hood will make it shorter.
If you like something fun to do, you can practice getting the backup reg in your mouth without using your hands :)
Summary
With this setup we know where our backup is and we are going to be 100% sure that it is going to be there when we need it. What more can we possible ask for?
Happy diving!





(C) 2002-2006 DIR-diver.com Peter Steinhoff

Reg configuration doubles


How?
This is how we configure our regs on a set of doubles:


Right post (as you wear them):

  • Longhose
  • Wing inflator

Left post (as you wear them):

  • Pressure gauge (far right in pic)
  • Backup reg (next to pressure gauge)
  • Optionally drysuit (shallow diving)

Why?
The one thing that decides where the rest must go is the longhose.
When we share gas we donate our longhose. The hose is a longhose because we have to be able to share gas with the reciever swimming in front and the donator behind him. If we do this for instance in a cave or other tight spot we have the possibility of rolling our valves against the roof of the cave. In this case the left post will roll off and the gas will be shut off but the right post will only roll on so it will stay on. Because the right post can't roll off and create more problems in a serious situation we have the long hose on our right post.
Since the long hose is on the right post we need to have our backup reg, which hangs in a bungee cord around our neck on the left post. Otherwise we would not have any redundancy which is the purpose of two regs and a double tank in the first place. Read more about when to use doubles and single tanks here .
The wing goes on the right post because of similar reasons why we put the longhose there. If we pass a tight spot and roll off the post with the wing inflator we don't want to find this out by sinking into the silt unable to inflate. This should however not really happen since standard procedure is to always check your valves when there is a possibility that the valves have touched the ceiling. Another reason, which is my favorite, is when you dive in cold water and your inflator mechanism freezes in the open position you can just dump your gas with your left hand while shutting down the post with your right. It's very effective and I've seen this done for real on several occations.
Since we have our wing on the right post we put our drysuit on the left, unless we are using a separate drysuit bottle. Actually using a separate bottle is neccessary when having a helium based breathing gas in your doubles and personally I prefer to use a drysuit bottle all the time. Then I can also use argon which is better due to it's lower thermal conductivity.
The last thing is the pressure gauge which we put on the left post. The reason for that is simply because it's easier to have it there as it wont be in the way of the longhose when we have to donate that. Another reason is when you are scootering you are using your right hand to scooter so you can unlip your pressure gauge and look at it without stopping or slowing down.
Finer points
As you can see in the pictures I use Apeks DS4 first stages which are good reliable regs. Apeks together with Scubapro is probably what you see most tech DIR guys use.
I angle the DS4s to take the strain off the HP hose going to your pressure gauge and the longhose. How much angle needed depends on your tanks and valves. In the pictures they are rigged on a set of double 12 liter tanks which are small doubles compared to a set of double 18s or PST 104s.
Also notice on the right post that I use the back LP port to run the longhose. That gives the longhose a natural tendency to stay behind the wing.
On some wings, like the circular Evolve from Halcyon, you might have to route the longhose OVER the wing instead of behind it - if you do use the other port. The reason one might have to go over the wing instead of behind it is because the longhose won't stay behind the wing which actually depends on how far your light canister extends down. I always run it behind the wing and never had a problem.
On the left post the drysuit hose sticks out a bit. It's not a problem in real life but I still prefer to use that port for drysuit hoses and other stuff (like the blow gun I attach when I teach) and keep the backup reg on the other LP port.

On the picture above notice how the backup reg is run under the inflator hose. And also that I tuck the wing in under the HP hose because when I wear the rig everything will be pressed up against the cylinders. Now those hoses can lay nice and have smooth bends.
Hose lengths
As short as possible but with no decrease in functionality! OK, how much did that help you? :)
The long hose needs to be 7ft, 2.10m. For taller people like myself (195cm/6'5") you may need to add a few inches to that. Shorter people may want to have a shorter longhose but should be very careful with this as they may need to share gas with a longer person swimming in front of them.
The backup reg needs to long enough so you can look to your left in the water. That is usually around 24" but depends on what first stages you have and how big/small your are. A custom hose length may be neccessary. If the hose is too long it will drop down over you right arm and usually be in the way of your right chest d-ring.
The wing inflator hose needs to go from the right post straight to the corrugated hose and run on the side closest to you. A 24" hose here is also usually fine.
The drysuit hose is run from the first stage down, under your left armpit, under the harness and to the inlet valve. Too short is a pain in the ass. The hose that comes with the drysuit is usually fine. Think it is a 36" hose but try with the one you have and see if it fits. If you use an argon bottle you need a shorter hose.
The HP hose for the pressure gauge needs to be long enough so you can operate it easily. Usually 24" is perfect but sometimes you may need slightly longer or shorter. Many people have tendency to use a too short hose here in their excitment to make everything is slick as possible so be aware of that. I use a 25" hose.
When measuring hoses most people don't know how to do that. Staying consistant with what is used in the hydraulic and pneumatic industry means that you measure from sealing surface to sealing surface on the assembled hose. So the threads are not measured on the barb and the length of the hose is longer than what the manufacturer cuts the hose itself when they assemble it.
But this doesn't matter much as the hoses from different sources have different lengths even if they are supposedly the same. Also length differences between different batches from the same manufacturer can occur. If you mail order make sure you can return the hose if it's really wrong. I usually buy mine in the dive shop so I can try it myself. Same thing with boltsnaps. Some are good and some are really bad but if you can try them first you can just get the good ones and leave the rest to everybody else.
Summary
This how we configure our regs on the doubles. Everybody is expected to have it the same way and with the proper hose lengths.
Most common mistakes for those preparing to take tech or cave training is using a too long hose for the backup and a too long HP hose unless they know it suppose to be shorter.
Have fun!





(C) 2002-2006 DIR-diver.com Peter Steinhoff

Reg configuration stages & decobottles


 I use Apeks and in the examples below you'll see DS4 and DST first stages with Tx50 seconds.

Fully rigged deco bottle
Here we have a DS4 first stage with a Tx50 second stage rigged on an 40 cuft deco bottle. Notice that the 40" hose is routed to the left of the handle. That makes it easy to deploy and stow the reg on the bottle.
The 21 on the side is the maximum depth (MOD) for the bottle, 21 meter. So there is probably 50% nitrox or 50/25 trimix in there. There is also another 21 on the other side of the bottle so you can see the depth no matter how you hold the bottle.
As you can see I also have the second stage placed high. If you carry many bottles it's usually better to have it lower on the bottle since it has a tendency to be quite busy around your left d-ring otherwise.
DS4 first stage
If we look closer at the reg we can see how the SPG is bent back on a short HP hose. It's held in place with some cave line. On a DS4 it is best to put the SPG on the left so it is protected by the valve and the first stage.
You can also get a glimpse of the analysis tape on the right side. That is where you want to put it so you can view under water if you like to double check. The large MOD is what we use as our primary identification of the bottle.
DST first stage
This is a picture of a DST first stage an a small aluminum 30 bottle (perfect for oxygen in the ocean). Here we have to put the SPG on the right because it is a swivel reg. Anyway it is still protected since this first stage is larger than the DS4.
With the swivel first stage you should use a regular 36" octopus length hose. You don't have to of course but with a 40" hose you don't need the swivel and could have used a DS4. The DS4 first stage is by the way what I recommend.
Pressure gauges
Normally on our doubles we use heavy duty brass gauges with mineral glass. On stages and deco bottles your looking for something small and light instead. I have used Suunto SM26 without problems but I know Scubapro makes a small one that is good as well as Agir and others.
Summary
This how we configure our regs on the stages. If you use another first stage you have to be creative. Try to run the hose on the left side though.
Have fun!




(C) 2002-2006 DIR-diver.com Peter Steinhoff

How to rig your stage/deco bottles.




Hardware needed:

  • 2m (6.5 ft) of 5mm (3/16") braided polyester line (same as caveline only thicker)
  • 2 stainless steel boltsnaps (3" long, 1" eye)
  • 1 feet of rubber fuel hose (8-10mm inner diameter) 5/16-3/8"
  • 1 big stainless steel hose clamp
  • 1 piece of racebike innertube.
  • 2 pieces of car innertube. (not in the picture above)



1. Pull the line through the hose.

Fold the polyester line so that one end is approx. 22-23cm (9") longer. Attach a piece of cave line (60cm, 2ft) and use it to pull the thick line through the hose. Pull about 20cm (8") of line through so you have enough room to attach the upper boltsnap.


2. Attaching the upper boltsnap.

Attach the upper bolt snap inside an overhand knot. Make sure it's even and nice looking. Place the knot so that the boltsnap is positioned above the break of the tank. If it's too low the bottle will cause a lot of drag.


3. Make an overhand knot.
Make an overhand knot just below the hose. Pull on it and make sure it's nice and tight.


4. Attach the lower boltsnap.

You want 75-100mm (3-4") of slack on the lower boltsnap, so the bottle can ride in the slipstream. When you are swimming or if you want it closer you can wrap the boltsnap under the handle. BTW, the yellow color is for clarity only!

You can attach the boltsnap so it's either removable or permanent.


5. Make a fishermans knot to hold everything together.

A fishermans knot is nothing more than two overhand knots. Make the first knot and place it as high as possible. Pull on it real hard. Then make the second knot and put it together with the first one.

Try to make them "fit" together and be as tight as possible.

When you are satisfied cut of the excess line and burn the ends with a lighter.


6. We are done!
The stage handle is now complete but we still need to mount it on a bottle.


7. Put on the hoseclamp
Slide on the small innertube and put it over the screw to the hose clamp.
If you have unpainted bottles you may want to put something (maybe paint) under the hose clamp (or some protection over the clamp) to avoid dissimilar metal corrosion.


8.Wrapped or not?
For swimming or when using only one bottle you might want to wrap the boltsnap under the handle to shorten it.


9. Ready!

Finally, put on the car inner tube sections over the handle to makes it easier to grip if you use gloves. Otherwise you put it under.

Well, doesn't that look like a sexy bottle???

And remember that the handle is for underwater use only! Always carry your bottles by the valve. If you don't, the handle is going to get longer and become sloppy!

Happy diving!!!


(C) Peter Steinhoff 2002-2003

11 Temmuz 2012 Çarşamba

Sualtı Dünyası Dergisinin 126'ncı sayısı yayında






Sn. Ateş Evirgen, Sualtı Dünyası (Marine Photo) dergisinin 126'ncı sayısında, benim  üçüncü makaleme de yer verdi.
Derginin web sayfasından (http://www.sualtidunyasi.com.tr) ücretsiz üye olarak, bu ve bundan önceki sayıları online okuyabilirsiniz. (isterseniz acrobat reader formatında kayıtta edebiliyorsunuz)





















13 Haziran 2012 Çarşamba

What exactly is "Oxygen Cleaning" by Harry Avril




You probably know the story of the blind men and the elephant. If you somehow missed it, here's the short version:

Three blind men came upon an elephant. The first, feeling the animal’s leg, proclaimed that an elephant must be much like a tree trunk. The second, finding the animals trunk, said that a more apt comparison would be a snake. The third, holding on to the elephants tail, was puzzled by the first two’s misinterpretation of the facts. To him, an elephant felt exactly like a rope.

We see much the same confusion taking place over our new Modular Valve System (MVS) tank valves. These components come from the factory free of hydrocarbons and other flammable contaminants. The lubricants used in the valve assembly are non-combustible. The o-rings and seals are made from Viton or other oxygen-compatible materials.

Aha!" say the blind men, “These new MVS components must be much like the oxygen clean or oxygen service rated equipment we read about in textbooks."

Not exactly. This may, in fact, be a good time to open your eyes to the facts regarding oxygen cleanliness.

Oxygen Cleaning in the Big Leagues

When the aerospace industry needs a component “oxygen clean,” they do not simply take it out in back, hose it down with Simple Green and swap out a few o-rings. True oxygen cleaning takes place in a special “clean room,” whose atmosphere is free of dust and contaminants.

Once the component is free of hydrocarbons and other combustible elements, it is sealed within a sterile environment and never again exposed to normal atmospheric dust, moisture and contaminants. This is what it means to be oxygen clean.

So Are the Textbooks Wrong?

I say the word boat. You envision a rowboat. I'm thinking of the Queen Mary. Which of us is wrong?

The problem here is a matter of semantics. (A term used to describe the process of using word meanings to prove that you're right and the other guy doesn't know what he's talking about.)

If you are writing a textbook, you can get away with using a broad definition for oxygen clean and oxygen service. That's because textbook writers have yet to come under the scrutiny of America's insurance underwriters and trial lawyers. When you are a manufacturer or distributor, you are continually in the specter of "product liability." This holds you to a higher standard of  countability and motivates you to choose your words carefully.

So What Can we Say about MVS Components?

The broadest label we can apply to MVS components is to say that they are Nitrox ready. But wait--isn't all dive equipment suitable for Nitrox use when filled from a pre-mixed source? If the pre-mixed source is no richer than EAN 40 (40 percent oxygen), the answer is yes.

Okay. How about using MVS components in an "oxygen clean" cylinder in which you plan to do partial-pressure Nitrox mixing? Let's put on our tap-dancing shoes here.

When new, the latest generation of MVS components comes from the factory free of hydrocarbons and other combustibles. They use Viton and other oxygen-compatible O-rings and seals. They are not, however, assembled in a clean room or sealed in a sterile environment. Additionally, we have no control over what happens to the valves after they leave us.

As a result, labeling our new MVS components as oxygen clean or oxygen service rated (although they may appear to meet the most commonly used criteria among the technical diving community), is not accurate. The best analogy might be the futility of trying to determine whether a new diver is "safe." The fact is, once you give that diver his or her Ccard, you have limited control over the diver's behavior or the choices he or she makes. Therefore, there is no way you can label such a diver "safe" or "unsafe."

The real problem, of course, has to do with the present legal climate in the United States. Makers of dive equipment are every bit as hamstrung as other manufacturers. So bad have things gotten that you can no longer claim that a BC might provide surface flotation, or that a dive computer might be used to avoid decompression illness.

Tort reform legislation recently passed by Congress may help; however, the real solution lies with individuals. If you want to participate in technical diving, you have a duty to educate yourself to the degree needed to make sound decisions-and, having made a decision, you must be willing to take responsibility for it. If you are not, you only stand to make diving so expensive that none of us can afford to participate.

3 Mayıs 2012 Perşembe

Manifolds


“Ideal” Manifolds… Not So Ideal?
By Jeffrey Bozanic, NSS-CDS 181, NSS 22353 Fellow
October 2005
The Benjamin Conversion manifold, or as it is more popularly called, the dual valve manifold, was utilized for cave diving and other environments in which regulator redundancy was deemed beneficial throughout the late 1970s to the mid-1990s. This manifold was a vast improvement over the pre-existing manifolds of the day, as they allowed two independent regulator systems to be used on the same set of doubles. Thus, if a regulator failure occurred (either first or second stage), the diver still had a viable option for self-rescue from the cave. During this time, cave divers worried about a few possible failures that could still result in catastrophic gas loss from the primary gas supply. These included:
  • Burst disk failure
  • Sudden, massive failure of one of the cylinder neck o-rings which seals the manifold
  • Loss of integrity of the manifold itself
These concerns lead to the development of the “Ideal” or isolation manifold, which allowed the two cylinders to be isolated from each other, maintaining at least part of the gas in the event of one of the failures listed above. It was considered a vast improvement, and very quickly replaced the use of the “unsafe” dual valve manifold. It is the primary manifold used today for all forms of technical open circuit diving. Yet, my opinion is this valve does not add safety, rather it significantly reduces it.
During the twenty or so years in which the dual valve manifold design was in use, there was only one recorded failure of the type listed above that occurred while diving. This event occurred during a cave dive while using a Sherwood manifold incorporating a metal-to-metal seal. Immediately prior to the dive, the double cylinders were accidentally knocked off the preparation platform. They fell about three feet to the ground, landing on the manifold. The manifold was closely examined prior to diving, but was not leaking, and the divers elected to dive. After the cylinder pressure had been reduced to about 1500 psi, the manifold catastrophically failed, and both divers exited successfully sharing gas from the remaining rig. It was suggested at the time that the fall caused a displacement cylinders relative to each other, which did not manifest itself until the pressure reduction allowed the metal-to-metal seal to shift and lose integrity.
In addition, in 30 years of accident data collection, there are two instances of in-water burst disk failure recorded. Both events occurred with cylinders that had been pressurized beyond the working pressure of the cylinders (in one case almost to the hydrostatic test pressure!), and occurred within minutes of the cylinders being placed in the water (prior to cave penetration, while in a safe environment). Also, in both instances, the burst disks had not been replaced in many years. It can be hypothesized that the old disks had metal fatigue from small flexing associated with repetitive filling and emptying over the years, and failed due to thermal shock when placed into relatively cold water after being sun warmed on the surface. Cave divers used to alleviate this risk by double disking or soldering the disks shut, but these are not recommended procedures. A far better practice is to replace all burst disks annually. As both of these incidents occurred at the surface, prior to beginning the dive, an isolation manifold would not have benefited the divers, since they would have called the dive anyway.
In contrast, since the isolation manifold was introduced in the early 1990’s, there have been many, many incidents related to misuse of the manifold. Most of these have been rectified without harm to the divers involved, but all of them had the potential for very serious consequences. The types of problems associated with this design of manifold along with representative case histories include:
  1. The isolation valve being closed prior to the dive.
Case #1: This involved a cave diver who began the dive with 3,000 psi (200 bar) in his doubles. He and his buddy did a S-drill prior to descending, indicating that both regulators were working fine. About 15 minutes into the dive, he noted that the pressure on his SPG was not dropping as expected. He reached up, opened the isolation manifold, and watched as his pressure dropped from 2,700 psi (180 bar) to 1,700 psi (110 bar). He called the dive, and exited the cave with no further incidents.
What happened was that the diver was in the practice of always leaving his isolation manifold open. However, when he had it filled, apparently the fill station operator closed it. Thus, only one cylinder was being utilized during the dive. The diver using the cylinders did not check the isolation valve, since it was “always” open. The pressure drop seen was due to the S-drill usage, BC and drysuit inflation, and cylinder cooling after being placed into the water.
  1. The isolation valve being closed during filling of the cylinders.
Case #2: A cave diver planned a nitrox dive to a depth of 110 ffw. Prior to the dive he analyzed his cylinders and found that he had EAN32, as expected.  He proceeded to a depth of 50 ffw, whereupon he began to experience symptoms of CNS oxygen toxicity. He immediately began sharing gas from his buddy, and aborted the dive.
After examining the cylinders on the surface, the team found EAN32 in one cylinder, and 100% oxygen in the second. Apparently, at some time during the blending process, the isolation valve was shut, resulting in only one cylinder being properly prepared. This was the cylinder that was analyzed, and so everything appeared normal prior to the dive. At no time prior to the dive did the diver check the isolation valve.
  1. Roll off of the left manifold valve.
Case #3: A cave diver swimming through a tight cave passage experienced a sudden failure of his gas supply. He switched regulators, and aborted the dive. After surfacing, he found that left manifold valve was closed. It had been open prior to the dive, as evidenced by his utilization of that regulator for the entire period up to the sudden supply failure. His forward movement through the overhead environment resulted in the “auto-shutdown” of the valve, as the hand wheel turned shut off as it scraped across the ceiling.
These failures are only representative of those in the files, and related to me anecdotally from other sources. Cases like this are very numerous, and any of them could have resulted in a fatality. In my opinion, it is only a matter of time until one does.
One might argue that these incidents did not need to occur, and that it was the divers’ fault for not checking the isolation valve prior to their dives. I do not disagree with this. However, when a piece of equipment opens itself up to a multitude of cases of “pilot error,” while not providing any concrete improvement in other areas of safety, then the net result is one of additional risk with a commensurate reduction in safety. For this reason, and the history of misuse of the manifolds in the field, my belief is that we should go back to using the standard dual valve manifold of the 1980’s or adopt another type of technology.
NOTE: This is one of a series of articles planned for Underwater Speleology, NACD News, and other journals of interest to the technical diving community which will discuss findings from the combined accident analysis files collected by the cave diving community.

About the Author:
Jeffrey Bozanic
P.O. Box 3448
Huntington Beach, CA 92605-3448
(714) 775-4462
E-mail:  JBozanic@HQonline.net
Jeff was certified as a NAUI Instructor in 1978, and for the NSS-CDS in 1983. He is certified to teach diving for the NSS-CDS, IANTD, TDI, and NAUI. Jeff is active in teaching cave, rebreather, nitrox, technical nitrox, and trimix diving courses. Together with his wife, Rebekah, he has maintained the combined accident files for the cave diving community (a joint project of the NSS-CDS, NACD, and IUCRR). He has published extensively on diving education topics, with heavy emphasis on cave diving safety techniques. He has edited/reviewed many diving textbooks, and is the author of Mastering Rebreathers. He has served on several Boards of Directors in the diving community, including as Chairman of the NSS-CDS and as Vice Chairman of NAUI, and as Treasurer on the AAUS Board. Jeff has received the NAUI Outstanding and Continuing Service Awards; the Silver Wakulla, Abe Davis, Henry Nicholson, and International Safe Cave Diving Awards; the SSI Platinum Pro 5000 Award, and is a NAUI Hall of Honor inductee.
Article Copyright 2005 Jeffrey Bozanic, All Rights Reserved